For stains, you apply then wipe off excess. Minwax® PolyShades® to the rescue! Or try the rattle cans. Polyshades as stated before is a tinted polyurethane. If you're using the Minwax Polyshades product or something similar, you don't need to use a clear poly finish afterwards, as the product is a mix of both stain and polyurethane. Now I’m a little bit of a control freak when it comes to stain, and like to be able to adjust my stain as I go, so I normally turn to stain first, and then top coat when I’m absolutely … To stain the conventional way, brush it on wipe it off, would leave no brush marks. To thin the Polyshades might dilute the color. I do this after the large areas are dry so I don’t smudge adjacent areas. I soak it on heavy and spread it out, then wipe off the excess. You need to be careful how you apply this because each coat you put on will make the project darker. Waited for it to dry at least 8 hours, on the can it says 2-3 hours. Then spray the poly. Do you wipe off Minwax polyshades? The poly finish will not allow you to wipe it off…and you’ll end up gunking it up. Scuff up the poly with the 80 grit, slop on some stripper and keep it wet until the poly wrinkles or starts to slough off. Poly can be sprayed but needs thinned, not sure what thinning and spraying would do for the stain. Typically, I use the traditional two-step method: apply my stain, wiping off the excess liquid before it dries, then the next day apply a clear finish. Best to do this outside and wear stripping gloves, respirator and eye protection. Easiest way is to get some Circa 1850 stripper and some 80 grit sandpaper. The tint will obscure the wood grain some, but since it’s a surface finish, it won’t absorb unevenly into the wood like penetrating stain can. It is recommended for interior wood surfaces such as furniture, molding, doors and cabinets. Second, it does not spray well, and using a brush will create nasty bubbles and imperfections. I choose Pecan to match my cabinets. For each coat of the poly my process was: wipe on with foam brush, wait 5-10 mins then wipe down with tack cloth. Minwax PolyShades is a combination stain and polyurethane finish for wood. Polyshades is supposed to be applied in a couple of thin coats…and left to dry, sanding lightly between. Use Wipe-On Poly for Small or Tight Areas. However, I think you'd still have to fight the "bleed-back" challenge because of the porosity of the red oak. Then applied 4 coats total of Minwax wipe on satin poly. You may apply the Minwax Water Based Polyurethane over a fully cured Minwax Wood Finish Stain (oil-based). Repeated 4 times. Then sanded using 600 grit and wipe down with tack cloth. You may be able to use some watered down bleach to lighten the wood some. I have used it many times with zero issues. I use cut up pieces of old t-shirts. You can then wipe on different shades of stain to make your pattern. When using Minwax PolyShades instead of a separate stain and varnish, you save time and effort as you protect and beautify your furniture or trim with a … You coat the project with the Polyshades and it does the color coat along with the top coat at the same time. You could try wiping the table down with mineral spirits to remove any excess stain, then allow it to dry and apply several coats of a tinted polyurethane (such as Minwax PolyShades). And when you scuff sand (with 320 grit) you will be taking some of the color off. Re: removing Minwax polyshades Bob! After the roll-on coats are dry, I use Minwax wipe on poly (use the same sheen you chose for the roll-on poly) for the face frames, legs, doors or any other narrow, small or intricate areas. First off, you do nit need to cut it with mineral spirits, just mix it well. PolyShades® is a one-step stain and polyurethane in one product. 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